Duck

I realize it has been some time since my last post--purely technical issues I assure you.. ( a combination of the failure of our household computers as well as the fact that my IT department frowns on blogging on company time...)

I'll get right into it. I love duck, I love its byproducts (foie gras, duck fat etc) but I will be honest I still havent mastered the ability to cook it to my liking. I tend to think of duck cooked in two culinary traditions--both of which require fairly technical skillsets.

The first is the french style (as with most foods..) Duck A'lorange: that behemoth of french gastronomie--surprisingly, still good. The french style tends towards an oven roasting style, using surrounding heat to bring the duck to a tender ending with a still crisp (though not crackling) exterior.

The second, increasingly more prevalent is the Asian style (ubiquitously refered to as "peking" or "cantonese") These are the whole roasted ducks hanging in your neighborhood chinese/korean/cantonese bbq hole in the wall. (for those of you who know where I live I clearly mean YOUR neighborhood joint not mine). Crispy orange skin, heads still on this is the perfection of thousands of years of duck loving culture.

I have yet to be able to replicate either the depth of flavour imparted in the french style, or the smashingly crisp skin of the peking brand. But recently I came as close as I ever have. The trick suggested by my friend Chef was a pre roasting boil. In a large pot put 6 tsp of honey as well as salt, pepper and herbs de provence. Boil for 15 minutes and then remove the duck and allow to dry. Zest 2 large oranges and crush in a mortar and pestle with fleur de sel, cracked black pepper and black garlic. Rub the now dry duck thoroughly- and stuff the cavity with quartered oranges and onions. Turn on one side of the bbq and place the duck on the indirect heat side, glazing with a mixture of garlic, onions, honey, orange juice, and vinegar. Cook for 3 hours at a very low heat until the skin becomes crispy. DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT THEN TRY AND PUT THE DUCK OVER DIRECT HEAT TO "CRISP THE SKIN MORE" --that is how I ruined the duck (not totally, just enough to piss me off.)

Also--use any leftover fat to fry anything and everything you have at hand.