Friday, February 19, 2010

BBQ-A Request


A good friend of mine (who once managed to make his way through a marquee performance of "walking in memphis" whilst literally gallons of beer flew through the air with a crowd of 100 screaming along) asked me recently to discuss what I am most often known to be an afficianado of---Barbeque.

I realize that for much of what I do, BBQ is not the technical term- I do more high heat grilling (steaks, chops, chicken etc) but on a day when I have the time and inclination there is a sweet simplicity in cooking low and slow, with a nice bit of smoke. So for the next few posts Ill throw up some of my favorite bbq/ grilling recipes to get us out of these winter blahs. To start, the basics- the rub and the sauce! (my general all-purpose recipes)

First: The RUB

Key to the rub is the balance between salt, sugar, heat and umami (as with all cooking) but really you need to watch these flavours as well as keeping in mind how things will brown while cooking.

BBQ Rub for Ribs, Pork, Chicken etc (makes a lot)

2 tbsp peppercorns (whole)
2 tbsp kosher or other large grain salt
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
2 tbsp garlic powder
2 tbsp "Presidents Choice" Mesquite Rub
2 tbsp Onion Powder
2 tbsp Brown Sugar (Raw sugar actually works great for this)
1 tsp Oregano
2 tbsp Cajun Spice
1/2 tsp nutmeg (whole)
4 Coffee Beans

Put everything into either a food processor, or in my case a mortar and pestle (big ass one) and grind/ work it into a fairly smooth consistency. This is my go to!

BBQ Sauce

There are many different ways to go with BBQ sauce, all which owe their traditions to the southern US. These can focus on vinegar bases (East Carolina), tomato focus (west carolina), heavy smoke (kansas style, or heavy spice (texas). I would say my sauce falls between a east carolina and a kansas style. I love the smokey sweet vinegar flavours.

BBQ Sauce (Good Amount)

1 Large White Onion, Fine Dice
3 Cloves Garlic, Fine Dice
1 Shallot, Fine Dice
1 Thai Bird Chile (dried and crushed)
1/2 Cup Jack Daniels (or other rye whiskey)
1 Cup White Wine
500ml (tall boy) India Pale Ale
1 Cup Chicken Broth
2 tbsp of the above Rub
1 small can tomato paste
1/4 cup white wine or cider vinegar
1 tbsp brown sugar
A few drops "liquid smoke" or other commercial smoke flavour.
1 tsp maple syrup.

Method:

In a large saucepan, add about 2 tbsp butter and an equal part olive oil. At low heat cook off the onions, then add the shallots and garlic, just before they start to brown add the rye and flambee!! Put out said fire with the stock, then the wine, then the beer, then the vinegar. Let that cook for 10 minutes or so-allowing the harsh alcohol to burn off. At that point incorporate all the remaining ingredients and knock the heat down to low. Simmer until you get a consistency just a little thinner then your average off the shelf bbq sauce.

So there, I have given you the secrets of my bbq....maybe next time ill expound on the importance of using specific woods to smoke different meats!!

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Oh when the saints...


I like to think that it was my decision to cook creole food last week that directly lead to the Saints taking the superbowl..and I don't want to hear anything to the contrary.

But in honour of that great underdog victory (of which I saw almost nothing as I was working the floor) I thought I would cook something rarely seen. A HEALTHY Cajun meal. We have all seen Emeril Lagasse, Paul Prudhomme, and the Queen of Butter Paula Deen and lets just say that their food isn't exactly health conscious. On the contrary its actually the embodiment on all that I love! Fried, spicy, mixing a variety of protiens and most of all- lasciviously thick with cream, butter, and starches.

Think of some of the signature dishes. Broiled Gulf Shrimp in Cajun Butter (to die for) Gumbo- That combination of meat, seafood, tomato and served with grits, Po Boy sandwiches( Meat & FRIED SEAFOOD!) This is a culture that lives for food, and it’s not surprising.

When you look at the history of the Cajun cuisine you see a crossroads of some incredible culinary traditions. Take the natural ingredients of a southern state: crawfish, gulf shrimp, corn wheat and rice, catfish, and easy access to the produce of the bounty of Texas (for livestock) and Florida, Alabama & Georgia (incredible produce and local ingredients). Then you add the confluence of cultures: the spices and rich flavours of Africa, the indigenous recipes of the Acadians, and the massive influence of classic French Cuisine. In my mind the equation is as follows: fantastic ingredients + bold flavours + local know how+ particular European refinement & techniques= a culinary culture unlike any other place.

But, I digress. My healthy meal in brief:

Panko blackened Catfish (using ground panko crumbs and Cajun seasoning you get the crispy fried texture without the total immersion in oil)
Cajun Fried Spinach: sautéed baby spinach, crushed dried cayenne peppers from the garden, and minced garlic

Tomato Baguette: a slow simmered tomato sauce incorporating the Holy Trinity (bell peppers, celery and onions) cherry tomatoes and garlic-blended into an emulsified butter and spread onto Parisian baguette.

I think this bbq season will see an increasing foray into the styles of southern cuisine: focusing on slow cooking, enjoying the company of friends and beverages and focusing on a true- home cooked flavour over pretentious presentations and ingredients.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Parings


Been a while since I came up with anything new, apologies on that one but the days off have been few and far between lately (and the last one full of cleaning...) But I thought I would resume with a post about pairing wine and food (which is I guess the basis of my job?) But I thought I would take it a bit of a different way...usually I spend my days off cooking some elaborate meal, but lately am having more fun with putting together a few smaller simpler dishes to enjoy (at a significant saving!) So heres what were having tonight.

Mini Smoked Chicken Panini's: my favorite part of this is the smoked chicken, a 1/2 chicken smoked for three hours with hickory wood and mesquite spice (it currently smells amazing) I then pair this with sharp cheddar, caramalized onions, and mixed greens. Add a light bbq/chipotle mayo and grill in the panini press. To pair: I suggest a Graham Beck Chardonnay Voignier (South africa, about 12$) The chardonnay smoke will blend well with the chicken while the zest of the voignier will cut the cheese and mayo.

Grilled Garlic Pita Chips with Caramalized Onion Dip: simple dish great as a snack, side or munchie. Slice onions and caramalize in butter salt and pepper on low for an hour until deep brown, meanwhile grate garlic and poach in butter on very low temp for 45 minutes until golden. Cool the onions and stir into a ratio of 3 parts sour cream 1 part cream cheese until you have the desired consistency. Brush the pita with the garlic butter and grill until crisp, serve with the dip at room temperature. To Pair: Beer! a great snack deserves a great pint, one of my favorites? Tecate- the beer of mexico with a german eagle as its logo. Not overly hoppy or agressive it is a great beer to enjoy with a simple snack.

Coconut Shrimp: 16-20 count shrimps, shaken with a combination of panko bread crumbs, unsweetened shredded coconut, flour, lime zest, salt, pepper and cayenne. Then shallow fry in peanut oil and serve with sweet chile sauce. People will think your a proper cook with almost zero effort....to pair Cava. I actually prefer Cava to a lot of proseccos and non-vintage champagnes. Slightly dryer then prosecco and at a better price point, try this dish with a glass of Segura Viudas Brut Reserve and you cant go wrong!

Total cost of food enough for 4 with leftovers: $21
Total cost of two bottles of wine and 4 tall cans (substantial leftovers!): $36

So for $57 you can put on a fun three part meal with pairings in a short afternoon of cooking!

Cheers