Of Chicken Wings & Local Things

I'll be honest, I have an inherent weakness for Chicken Wings. Good ones, bad ones, ones that may not even be chicken; after about 2 pints I would eat them all. I used to be ashamed of this-someone who enjoys fine and wordly cuisine indulging in such a fast food trend. But then I noticed how regularly chef's cook chicken wings for themselves. Crispy, tender and a perfect vehicle for whatever sauce you care to toss them in-they are the perfect snack food.

The downside of course is that they are most often deep fried-ergo not exactly a health conscious option. And as such while I currently fight the winterly battle of the bulge, I try to lay off chicken wings whenever possible (I even had a salad last time they were up for staff meal!) Today as I walked through town to run some errands I must have walked past three pizza & wing joints, two restaurants that serve wings, and two more sports bar. And as I did I swear I could smell sweet sweet bbq sauce on the winds. But I thought I will not give into temptation! trudged to the butchers for some chicken breasts, and instead bought a lb of fresh chicken wings. However I decided to lightly toss them in seasoned flour, and bake then instead of frying, so at least it was a partial victory? I did notice however, the difference between these and normal wings.

1) They were huge, clearly the leftovers from trimmed whole chickens these were like miniature drumsticks!
2) They weren't fatty (the local butcher uses free range chickens with a beautiful yellow skin instead of the white bunched up fat)
3) there was still feathers in some....mmm fresh.

I enjoyed them immensely. But what I also enjoyed was the conversation I overheard while at the Butchers. An older gentleman was having a rambling conversation with the proprietor and it turns out that, once every two weeks this guy drives for an hour and a half just to stock up at this butcher. He had been a loyal customer for years and the Butcher will now cut and portion some odd cuts of meat just for the man and his wife, cutting down on their waste and food costs. That really impressed me, as did the knowledge that the butchers son is taking business courses while apprenticing with his father in hopes of taking over the family business.

I can't afford to always shop for my meat here, but you can be damned sure I am going to do it more often now!

Double Meat Flavour

In my time cooking I have often wondered why chefs amateur and professional pigeon-hole themselves into keeping one protein on the plate...when there are so many fantastic classic dishes that involve a blend of proteins to complement each other.

An easy combo is anything surf and turf- the natural umami flavour of beef will always offset the combination of a shellfish. But have you thought of venturing outside the pale? Incorporating foods not usually paired together. A few great combinations.

1) Pork & Prawns: Inevitably I have to bring up pork in this blog--but here it really does work (and in a number of ways!) Perhaps my favorite is to contrast the textures, grilling a brined pork chop with a mesquite rub while lightly frying the prawns (heads on!) in a simple Aglio e Olio dressing. The beauty here is when you have the lingering taste of the crisp pork and then add the subtle sweetness of the prawns-Magic.

2) Vitello Tonnato: ya--veal and tuna, it sounds terrible doesn't it? Honest truth, it's fantastic. Slow braised veal, thinly sliced and then topped with a creamy sauce of tuna, anchovie, chile pepper, and lemon it is a phenomenal throwback dish.

3) Scallops & Bacon: 'Nuff said? I suspect so. Basically- the incredible fat and smokey flavour of the bacon envelopes the scallop and offsets it's slightly soft texture. Try a new take: authentic Day Boat Scallops, double smoked bacon, pernod, all slow baked on the half shell- incredible.

It is clear we can combine the fruits of the earth and the fruites de mer, I welcome additional off the wall combinations of the two!

Cheers!

Pork

"Pork - no animal is more used for nourishment and none more indispensable in the kitchen; employed either fresh or salt, all is useful, even to its bristles and its blood; it is the superfluous riches of the farmer, and helps to pay the rent of the cottager.”
Alexis Soyer 19th century French Chef

"Mmmmm Bacon"
Homer Simpson- 21st century gastronome.

Do you not find it odd that there is nothing so in vogue right now in restaurant kitchens as the humble hog? Shocking when at least two of the most populous religions in the world consider it inedible verging on sacriligeous. That being said it appears that after years of the big ticket item being some sort of beef filet, the rage now is all towards braised, stewed, seared, and grilled pork.

My personal taste suits this just fine! The beauty of pork for me is the tender, meltingly sweet layer of clean fat that sits on the exterior of most cuts- and in the best directly between layers of moist flesh.

Bacon is king, and vicariously pork belly is queen. Crisp bacon has no comparison in the world of breakfast food. However, as named in the Toronto Star, Globe & Mail and Food & Wine magazine it is also the hot taste of the year-showing its glory in everything from lunch, to ice cream, to alcohol (no I am not kidding). Pork belly also seems to be de rigeur on most menus, often in a tasting of pork (for which I am eternally greatful to those chefs who can pull it off). My only qualifications are thus; If you are putting pork on your menu thou cannot commit the following sin

1 ) Thou shalt not serve me rare pork liable to give me trichonosis
2) Thou shalt not serve me pork similar in taste to sawdust (how can you screw it up with all that fat?!)
3) Though shalt not try and pair pork and a dessert (leave it to breakfast, brunch, lunch or main--please!)

So to close, it is clear my love of pork is absolute (via the image at the header of this blog) and I will elaborate the facets of this animal I crave!...the succulence of brined pork chops...the satisfaction of crisp bacon....the indulgence of Martin Picard's Pied de Cochon...the simplicity of roast pork and apples...the glory of braised pork belly...and finally--the joy of pork crackling..

So in the words of the worlds pork producers: "Get pork on your fork!"

Poutine

I thought that my first post on actual food should include that much maligned though suddenly chic French Canadian Classic Poutine. Why? Because this is the food that I associate my most recent great memories with. A staple of late night university post-bar debauchery it most often came in plastic tubs, slathered in gravy (and yes-I will admit I often commit the penultimate sin and put ketchup on mine). Many a hillarious stumble home and terrible hangover were accompanied by the squeaky crunch of cheese curds! A more (slightly) refined memory is that of eating Martin Picards Foie Gras Poutine at his beast of a restaurant Au Pied de Cochon. This glory of crisp fries, classic gravy mounted with normandy butter and foie, and then topped with foie was some sort of epiphany for me-and I am fairly sure the only reason my Fiance agreed to marry me! Recently poutine has gone mainsteam-topped with braised shortribs, chile, sour cream and in an oddly comforting return to Quebec classic- Bacon & Maple Syrup at torontos Poutini.

Will Poutine be another quick culinary fad? no question it will be...but whenever I have had a few too many glasses of vino my inevitable craving will be for that homely concoction of frites, gravy, & cheese curs. (and ketchup...)

First Post

A blog? Really? Never would have predicted this one. But at least its about my favourite subject-food, wine and all things consumable.

Spending the majority of my time talking about food I figured I may as well start keeping track of it all in an easily defamable forum where the general public can criticize my every thought (who ever said a bit of sadism was a bad thing?) So without further adieu a bit about myself.

I would say I am a mixed product of the Food Network Generation and a Food Loving Family. Do I have a rich culinary history to draw on? Special tales of learning to make orichette by nona's side or tasting my first perfect oyster with Grandpere? Absolutely not. Do I have fond memories of food? Absolutely- they were my first favorite meal (chicken tempura oddly) and my least favorite (some sort of casserole of ground beef my mother was supposed to top with crushed corn flakes but made a less then stellar substitution of corn pops).

After attending University I had aspirations of Law School, political office etc but school loans quickly kaiboshed those lofty dreams and instead I followed what I new and got into the Biz. Currently I am still there- in the wonderful world of Country Club food operations (more hillarious stories and anecdotes to follow).

To sum up what I hope this blog to be? (besides a massive success that will lead to some sort of book deal) It will be a regular rant on what I am eating, cooking, drinking, thinking in the world of food, wine, spirits, service and life. So should anyone read this I hope you will enjoy my take on my favourite topic.

Cheeers